For some reason, through out my time in Thailand, BEP became my anthem. Every time I turned on the T.V there was some disturbing news or another. This time I felt that the air had been sucked out of my lungs as I saw the devastation in Mumbai. Reports were coming in of a hostage situation in Mumbai. 10 Terrorists had taken over the Taj and the Oberoi hotels in Mumbai, killing 50 people at that point. I stared in shock and astonishment that this could happening the exact same time there was talk of a military coup in Thailand. Our group huddled together in quiet sadness as well so the devastation occurring to the buildings and the terror I fear that would rip appear whatever fragile framework that kept India together. I prayed and hoped that these militants would not be linked to Pakistan. I feared for another war and in my own selfish way I kept thinking that I couldn't go to the border regions now and conduct my research work on women affected by land mines. In a way, the bombings of Mumbai was a reality check. Maybe I was having too much fun. I felt like I had forgotten the world in a matter of days. I was infuriated with the Indian media for reporting incorrectly on the casualties and sensationalizing the news. The home minister resigned in shame for not responding earlier and was quickly replaced. Between reports on Thailand and Mumbai, I can only imagine the fear and worry that everyone I knew back home must be facing. Honestly, I have never felt so much love and concern until I moved to India. I had emails from all over the world inquiring if I was okay. To everyone who emailed me, thank you so much! I love you and your words only made me stronger.
Looking at all this destruction around me, I was looking for a silver lining, some sign of hope. I don't want to see a region destabilized by war. Maybe war will not happen and instead people will remember that in the face of terrorism, the biggest response anyone can do is to fight for justice, remember, heal and move forward. Fear is what extremists thrive on. So, why give them an opportunity to live on our fears. Instead, as a stared out of my balcony at the moon and the stars, I prayed for compassion, I prayed for hope and I prayed for peace.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Kho- San Road
Our First Group Dinner
I would be lying if I said I never knew this road existed. Actually, I found it on my first day in bangkok and practically every night after, it became our group's favorite hang out spot. It's called the backpackers road. It's also tourist central where you can find the best food, bars, nightlife, shopping and best of all “Thai massages”.
Every city has a distinct noise. In Delhi, its the never ending parade of honks from one end to another. In Khosan Road, its the women of the northern tribes of Thailand who attempt to sell you musical turtles. Basically you take a wooden piece and rub it in either directions and it makes a “trrrrrr” sound. Every night after 6pm, this noise takes over the street and blends into the reggaeton music, R and B and house coming from various areas of the street.
Kho san, is also where we quickly realized that we became the regulars. The tuk tuk drivers knew that we stayed at the royal princess. They even knew that we did not want to go to a “ping pong show” and we were NOT interested in women. ( I think we girls had confused them by holding hands one too many times)
This is also where I began to once again be called “Shilpa Shetty” from the Big Brother London fame. Maybe I should just nod my head and agree instead of cringing. The street has the best street food ever. From freshly cut fruit, to chicken skewers, sweet corn and most disgusting of all, any kind of insect you want to eat will be given to you. I say NASTY
The Fab Five
But, the lure of kho-san road was threefold. For us women, we wanted to hang out with all the cute foreign men. Quickly our favorites became the Aussies and the Brits. Hey, they were friendly and apparently, Indians are hot commodity. (I have no complaints, there is a GOD) Secondly, you could drink by the bucket for 200 baht and most importantly, drum roll please- BANANA pancakes and Mango Sticky rice...YUM YUM
Oh Jack Johnson you need to go to Kho-san road because every day is the weekend and you don't need to pretend! Banana pancakes covered in nutella or you can have them with carnation milk..so deadly good.
If you are ever stressed out or just feel like pampering yourself, for about a 100 baht, you can be stepped on, raised, have a deep tissue massage, have your body twisted and come out feeling like jelly. Hmm, life is good!
Random story: Trying to get back to the hotel, I was asked by a tuk tuk driver if I liked women. He then proceeded to show me pictures of naked women because I had been holding on to my friend Joanna's arm. Never one to be shy, I proceeded to find two cute boys and began pointing at them, telling the driver “ I no like women, I like MEN, see see, MEN”.
Most commonly asked questions on Kho- san road:
“ You like Ping Pong show”, Ping- Pong. If you don't know what that is please email me.
“You want Spicy club?”
“ Are you Indian, you buy sari, give you good price”
“ Oye, you look like Shilpa Shetty”
Stranded in Paradise: "Can you hear me calling out SOS"
Day three. You could imagine our sheer shock when we realized that the protesters against the Thai government had taken over the airport and effectively shut it down. We weren't going home??? Could this be true. By 6pm, the news was confirmed. All flights had been cancelled and the next available date was in December. There were reports of firings where protesters had been injured and possible bombings. But, where we were, there was nothing but peace. We were actually shocked to see how much devastation the Thai economy was to suffer in the next coming days. BBC reported that the country faced a worse future than the Asian Economic Crisis of 1997. The protesters through peaceful measures want to topple the government and weaken it to its knees. It worked. For nearly a week, these protesters organized the shut down of one the largest airports in South East Asia. They were well prepared with access to first aid, food, clothing and sleeping arrangements. Peacefully, they called for a dissolution of government and never gave up.
For us, it meant the stress of dealing with our respective embassies, trying to figure out if our expenses would be covered and when we could leave back for our respective countries. Honestly, I was happy that I got to spend more time in Thailand but at the same time, I really wanted to return to India and continue with my internship. Moreover, it would mean that I would be missing World AIDS day in Delhi, something I have been involved in the planning phase for the last month.
After the last day of the conference, the Indian delegation was lucky enough to find out that the travel agent in Ottawa had actually automatically re-booked us on the first available flight (December 4th!!!!) . For the rest, they weren't so lucky. I felt so bad with all the uncertainty because we all had jobs, school and exams awaiting us on our return. Although, the city was very peaceful and we didn't have to worry about our personal safety, we were all under the same pressure to get back home.
Again, I have to say this even though it was a saving face measure by the Thai government, I still cant express how thankful I am and how happy I was when I found out that the Thai government would be kind enough to provide accommodation and all food expenses at selected hotels (including ours) until the protests ended and the airports were re-opened. Now, which government in the world would ever offer to do that for their stranded tourists. I cant think of any other.
For us, it meant a couple extra days to see the city, have fun and wait until we could fly home.
For us, it meant the stress of dealing with our respective embassies, trying to figure out if our expenses would be covered and when we could leave back for our respective countries. Honestly, I was happy that I got to spend more time in Thailand but at the same time, I really wanted to return to India and continue with my internship. Moreover, it would mean that I would be missing World AIDS day in Delhi, something I have been involved in the planning phase for the last month.
After the last day of the conference, the Indian delegation was lucky enough to find out that the travel agent in Ottawa had actually automatically re-booked us on the first available flight (December 4th!!!!) . For the rest, they weren't so lucky. I felt so bad with all the uncertainty because we all had jobs, school and exams awaiting us on our return. Although, the city was very peaceful and we didn't have to worry about our personal safety, we were all under the same pressure to get back home.
Again, I have to say this even though it was a saving face measure by the Thai government, I still cant express how thankful I am and how happy I was when I found out that the Thai government would be kind enough to provide accommodation and all food expenses at selected hotels (including ours) until the protests ended and the airports were re-opened. Now, which government in the world would ever offer to do that for their stranded tourists. I cant think of any other.
For us, it meant a couple extra days to see the city, have fun and wait until we could fly home.
I See What? ICPD Training ( Conference on Sexual Health and Reproductive Rights)
Meet Sri Lanka, Canada, Nepal, India (part of the big group)
Rise and Shine. The sunrises outside my room are absolutely spectacular. I was on a mission. After a 10 km bike ride the night before, my ass was completely sore! Now I know what it means to waddle like a penguin! Well, I was determined to keep at my fitness regime (trust me it didn't last past day two). I was off to the gym. Huffing and puffing at 7 am, I was barely able to run for 10 minutes. So disappointing. But, you know the best way to get over that feeling is to eat more!
My roommate is from Beijing. Her name is Dulily and she is from the family planning commission in China. One of the largest NGO's with nearly a million people in membership. I quickly found out that this is one of the few places the Chinese government allows NGO activity in. Sex education and population is surely a priority with the population rising on a daily basis. Du lily is funny without knowing it. I think its in the way she delivers her comments and blushes at the sight of cute foreigners. I love it!
During the training, I quickly realized how much I had in common with everyone around the table. It was great to finally discuss issues in depth with people my own age and after a long time, I was able to say sex, condom or even HIV positive loudly without getting stared at. I could feel myself opening up to the concepts and learning, arguing and expressing my feelings through out that day. The exercises enabled me to focus my points and the regional context allowed me to understand the challenges faced. I never knew Malaysia was so behind in sexual and reproductive rights to a point of being repressive. In a couple years, there is a great fear that HIV in the youth will have reached an uncontrollable rate.
I was overwhelmed by the amount of information we went over a span of four days. It gave me a greater understanding of the challenges and commonalities south Asia and south east Asia faces. I felt empowered as women knowing that even this is a privilege. To be able to travel abroad and discuss issues such as abortion, condom use, rape, abuse without any fear in itself was a real honor. The long sessions left us drained of energy and the abundant food kept us going every night.
Travelling Back in Time, Over the River Kwai
Bangkok is one of my favorite cities in the world! It's really clean compared to Delhi. The food is to die for...give me more tum yum soup any day and most of all, Thai people really are the kindest people I have ever met. I mean these people will go out of your way to help you and make you feel comfortable in their land. I love it!
Well, the journey began late Saturday night (November 23rd). After waiting for a good hour on the road for the taxi to show up (apparently he was lost), I was off to Thailand! It has been almost exactly a year since my last visit to Thailand and hallejuah I was excited. Well, like all journey's, leaving India was not as easy as entering the country. Apparently, if you don't add the preceding letters of your flight to your flight number on the exit card, the crazy Indian immigration official will yell at you!
But, as luck would have it, the rest of the journey to Thailand was pleasant. With my new friend from India (priyanka), the both of us got upgraded to first class. OH YEAH BABY! Can you hear the champagne flutes and glasses of wine along with an assortment of desserts coming my way. Life is GOOD! I know at this point most of you must be cursing me on my good fortunes. But remember, I do live out of a room that has a bed and a outhouse type toilet that works when it feels like it. So, I think I deserve the good treatment.
Watching the sunrise in the plane and landing in bangkok was stunning. Have you ever been in love with a city? Well, for some reason no matter how many times I come back to this city, I seem to fall in love all over again. After Cambodia, Thailand is my favorite country and well Bangkok my second favorite city. After a quick exit from Suvarnabhumi airport (now infamous for being shut down for close to a week), we were off to the Royal Princess Hotel on Lang Luang road. The Thais can't pronounce “s” properly so, we were constantly asking for the Princep hotel.
Priyanka had decided to sleep off all the jet lag she was facing. I on the other hand had other plans. One of the things I had regretted on my last visit to Thailand was that I hadn't been to the Bridge over the River Kwai in Kanchanburi. After a quick google search, I found a mountain biking company that actually took you on a 10km ride around the river. Well, I signed up for it.
Can you hear the pain? Well after practically suffering through breathing issues, stomach flu and fainting spells in India, but my body was screaming bloody murder. I hadn't been on a bike since June in Uruguay and I am totally out of shape. The 10 km bike ride up and down hill nearly knocked the wind out of me.
It was completely worth it. I discovered underground caves built in the 13th Century by the different Siam Kings and of course Ganesha. No matter where you are in Thailand, you will find the Ganesha Idol and is also revered by the Thai people.
Standing on the Bridge
Cycling over the railway tracks made me feel numb. These were the very same tracks which the prisoners of war from Australia, Canada, India, Philippines were all interned and forced to create a network connecting Burma and Thailand. Japan's great vision in 1944 was to also conquer India and the route chose was through Burma. Seeing the tracks and the crude tools used, I was in tears. Nearly 5000 POW's died during this period to build the system. Cruelty was the norm, food supplies were covered in maggots and bodies were pushed beyond the limit of rational understanding. All in the name of a dream- conquer Asia pacific for resources.
The saddest point for me was visiting the POW museum and seeing the reality of it all. I cried reading the letters these soldier wrote back home, was inspired by their courage to communicate their whereabouts through tin radios, knowing that death would be certain if they were caught and felt utter sadness as I stared at the cemeteries across the road.
What was the point of such cruelty? All in the name of power and conquest? Time and Time again I kept thinking back on everything that has happened this year. Bombing across India, terrorist attacks and more insanity....where is the love?
We say “never forget, never again” but sadly, people forget forget and never again is made mockery off on a daily basis. All I kept asking myself on the ride back to Bangkok...where is the love?
Well, the journey began late Saturday night (November 23rd). After waiting for a good hour on the road for the taxi to show up (apparently he was lost), I was off to Thailand! It has been almost exactly a year since my last visit to Thailand and hallejuah I was excited. Well, like all journey's, leaving India was not as easy as entering the country. Apparently, if you don't add the preceding letters of your flight to your flight number on the exit card, the crazy Indian immigration official will yell at you!
But, as luck would have it, the rest of the journey to Thailand was pleasant. With my new friend from India (priyanka), the both of us got upgraded to first class. OH YEAH BABY! Can you hear the champagne flutes and glasses of wine along with an assortment of desserts coming my way. Life is GOOD! I know at this point most of you must be cursing me on my good fortunes. But remember, I do live out of a room that has a bed and a outhouse type toilet that works when it feels like it. So, I think I deserve the good treatment.
Watching the sunrise in the plane and landing in bangkok was stunning. Have you ever been in love with a city? Well, for some reason no matter how many times I come back to this city, I seem to fall in love all over again. After Cambodia, Thailand is my favorite country and well Bangkok my second favorite city. After a quick exit from Suvarnabhumi airport (now infamous for being shut down for close to a week), we were off to the Royal Princess Hotel on Lang Luang road. The Thais can't pronounce “s” properly so, we were constantly asking for the Princep hotel.
Priyanka had decided to sleep off all the jet lag she was facing. I on the other hand had other plans. One of the things I had regretted on my last visit to Thailand was that I hadn't been to the Bridge over the River Kwai in Kanchanburi. After a quick google search, I found a mountain biking company that actually took you on a 10km ride around the river. Well, I signed up for it.
Can you hear the pain? Well after practically suffering through breathing issues, stomach flu and fainting spells in India, but my body was screaming bloody murder. I hadn't been on a bike since June in Uruguay and I am totally out of shape. The 10 km bike ride up and down hill nearly knocked the wind out of me.
It was completely worth it. I discovered underground caves built in the 13th Century by the different Siam Kings and of course Ganesha. No matter where you are in Thailand, you will find the Ganesha Idol and is also revered by the Thai people.
Standing on the Bridge
Cycling over the railway tracks made me feel numb. These were the very same tracks which the prisoners of war from Australia, Canada, India, Philippines were all interned and forced to create a network connecting Burma and Thailand. Japan's great vision in 1944 was to also conquer India and the route chose was through Burma. Seeing the tracks and the crude tools used, I was in tears. Nearly 5000 POW's died during this period to build the system. Cruelty was the norm, food supplies were covered in maggots and bodies were pushed beyond the limit of rational understanding. All in the name of a dream- conquer Asia pacific for resources.
The saddest point for me was visiting the POW museum and seeing the reality of it all. I cried reading the letters these soldier wrote back home, was inspired by their courage to communicate their whereabouts through tin radios, knowing that death would be certain if they were caught and felt utter sadness as I stared at the cemeteries across the road.
What was the point of such cruelty? All in the name of power and conquest? Time and Time again I kept thinking back on everything that has happened this year. Bombing across India, terrorist attacks and more insanity....where is the love?
We say “never forget, never again” but sadly, people forget forget and never again is made mockery off on a daily basis. All I kept asking myself on the ride back to Bangkok...where is the love?
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Back to Reality
I am finally back in Delhi after nearly an amazing and unexpected two week stay in Thailand. I still can't believe all the things I've done, seen, laughed at, discussed eagerly and opened my heart to. One word to describe the two weeks would be: Surreal. I am now sitting at my favorite spot in Delhi. The oxford bookstore on Barkambha road. I am surrounded by the smell of freshly brewed Nilgiri tea from the southern states of India. To my left, there is a display of fifteen varieties of tea pots covered in unique designs. I am fascinated by the tea pot in the shape of a Rhinoceros!!! I am more thrilled with the fact that the milk I am using for my tea is served from a pot in a shape of a COW! I kid you not! He hot steaming milk comes out of the mouth of the cow. I am almost tempted to steal it and take it home with me. Ahead of me, I can clearly see clear roads of a sleepy Sunday afternoon turn into the hustle and bustle of Sunday shopping. After all, Sunday markets are popular where you can find pretty much anything to meet your heart's desire. I really did not understand why the girls in my training in Bangkok went crazy over shopping. You can basically get the same goods, for a cheaper rate here in Delhi. It really is a shopper's paradise.
But, I am digressing. The following blog entries are a re-cap of all the best moments of my time in Bangkok- the fun, the craziness, my own personal sadness, unexpected journeys and more! Every time I think I know myself- my thoughts, my emotions, my morals; I am shocked to learn that there is more. This truly is a discovery of the soul. Even as I write this, I find it strange. I feel complete now. I have clarity. I know with certain level of confidence what I want from life. Again, this feeling changes almost on a daily basis but for now, I am happy. Its just a matter of timing and finding the right moment to proceed down that path. Maybe after you read the next couple entry's...things will start to achieve its own sense of clarity. Everything is in the eye of the beholder.
But, I am digressing. The following blog entries are a re-cap of all the best moments of my time in Bangkok- the fun, the craziness, my own personal sadness, unexpected journeys and more! Every time I think I know myself- my thoughts, my emotions, my morals; I am shocked to learn that there is more. This truly is a discovery of the soul. Even as I write this, I find it strange. I feel complete now. I have clarity. I know with certain level of confidence what I want from life. Again, this feeling changes almost on a daily basis but for now, I am happy. Its just a matter of timing and finding the right moment to proceed down that path. Maybe after you read the next couple entry's...things will start to achieve its own sense of clarity. Everything is in the eye of the beholder.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Dr. Sahib, the Stomach Flu wont go away
It's back! I keep thinking “Die Hard: Vengeance” to describe my recent bout with the stomach flu. Actually the stomach flu that I had contracted in the wedding, turned into a full blown stomach infection. Every other day I either throw up or for the lack of a better description, have the runs. Not fun at all! I was passed out cold for about a day waiting for my fever to subside. This is when I decided I needed to see Dr. Sahib again.
So, off I went. Like my first experience with Dr. Sahib, I told him I had the flu and he nodded his head and said “Yes, you have the stomach flu”. He then proceeded to try and over medicate me with a variety of different drugs I had never heard off. I being cautious, decided to stick to one and see how it went.
It went bad. For the second time, when I tried to enjoy my day off with Vasu, I became Ms. Puke-sa lot! I am glad Vasu convinced me to stay over at her in-laws place. They were doctors and well they threatened to inject me with medication if I didn't take better care of myself.
It has been three days now and I am happy to report after taking the anti-biotics for my stomach infection (dropping 7 kilos in a week...yikes) I am back to normal for now.
During my briefing, I was warned of being homesick. But, having travelled so many times abroad and living by myself on the road, I didn't realize I would have any homesickness. It hit me during my stomach sickness. I was transformed back into a child.. Mommy!
Luckily, with the improvement in my health, my attitude as well has lifted. I am now looking forward to my trip to Thailand, a welcome break from India, even if it is for a couple days.
I am going to participate in a workshop on sexual and reproductive health and I will be interacting with youth from all over Asia. I am also taking this as an opportunity to collect case studies on women and landmines. I want to see how their lives have been affected and what the government has done to help them. Upon my return to India, I hope to do the same in India. I want to find the girl who became the cover of the landmines report and talk to her. Hopefully this research, through my words can give a gendered perspective to the issue.
I am revitalized just thinking about it. Crossing fingers and will keep everyone posted.
So, off I went. Like my first experience with Dr. Sahib, I told him I had the flu and he nodded his head and said “Yes, you have the stomach flu”. He then proceeded to try and over medicate me with a variety of different drugs I had never heard off. I being cautious, decided to stick to one and see how it went.
It went bad. For the second time, when I tried to enjoy my day off with Vasu, I became Ms. Puke-sa lot! I am glad Vasu convinced me to stay over at her in-laws place. They were doctors and well they threatened to inject me with medication if I didn't take better care of myself.
It has been three days now and I am happy to report after taking the anti-biotics for my stomach infection (dropping 7 kilos in a week...yikes) I am back to normal for now.
During my briefing, I was warned of being homesick. But, having travelled so many times abroad and living by myself on the road, I didn't realize I would have any homesickness. It hit me during my stomach sickness. I was transformed back into a child.. Mommy!
Luckily, with the improvement in my health, my attitude as well has lifted. I am now looking forward to my trip to Thailand, a welcome break from India, even if it is for a couple days.
I am going to participate in a workshop on sexual and reproductive health and I will be interacting with youth from all over Asia. I am also taking this as an opportunity to collect case studies on women and landmines. I want to see how their lives have been affected and what the government has done to help them. Upon my return to India, I hope to do the same in India. I want to find the girl who became the cover of the landmines report and talk to her. Hopefully this research, through my words can give a gendered perspective to the issue.
I am revitalized just thinking about it. Crossing fingers and will keep everyone posted.
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